Street Food of Baku: Gutab, Doner, and More
The best way to understand a city is through its street food. And Baku's streets are delicious.
From the sizzle of gutab on a hot griddle to the aroma of doner spinning on a vertical spit, Baku's street food scene is a mix of traditional Azerbaijani flavors and influences from Turkey, Iran, and the Caucasus.
Grab a napkin, bring your appetite, and let's eat our way through the capital.
1. Gutab: The Crispy King of Street Food
Gutab is a thin, crispy flatbread stuffed with various fillings, folded into a half-moon, and cooked on a saj (a convex griddle).
Fillings:
- Sebzi (Herbs): Spinach, dill, cilantro, and spring onions. The most popular.
- Et (Meat): Ground lamb or beef with onions.
- Pendir (Cheese): Fresh white cheese with herbs.
- Goymag (Pumpkin): Seasonal, sweet and savory.
How to Eat:
Gutab is served with a side of sumac (tangy spice) and yogurt. Tear off a piece, dip it, and enjoy the crunch.
Where to Find:
- Fountains Square: Street vendors set up in the evenings.
- Sehrli Tendir (Old City): Sit-down spot with excellent gutab.
- Taza Bazaar: Local market with authentic, cheap gutab.
Price: 1-3 AZN per piece.
2. Doner: The Turkish Influence
Doner (shawarma) is everywhere in Baku. Marinated meat (chicken, beef, or lamb) is stacked on a vertical spit, slow-roasted, and shaved off in thin slices.
Served:
- In Lavash: Wrapped with tomatoes, onions, pickles, and sauce.
- In Bread (Ekmek): Stuffed into a crusty roll.
- On a Plate (Porsiyon): With rice or fries.
Best Doner Spots:
- Doner House (Nizami Street): Popular with locals and tourists.
- Chicken Doner near 28 May Metro: Legendary late-night spot.
- Nargiz Doner (Fountain Square): Fast, cheap, and tasty.
Price: 3-6 AZN.
3. Tandir Bread: Hot from the Oven
Freshly baked tandir bread is sold on street corners, especially in the Old City. It's crispy on the outside, fluffy inside, and still warm.
How to Eat:
- Plain (it's that good).
- With cheese and herbs.
- Dipped in soup or stew.
Where to Find:
- Sehrli Tendir (Old City): Watch them bake it in the clay oven.
- Street vendors near Icherisheher gates.
Price: 0.50-1 AZN per piece.
4. Baliq (Grilled Fish)
Along Baku Boulevard, you'll find vendors grilling fresh fish from the Caspian Sea.
Popular Fish:
- Sturgeon (Nərə): Rich and buttery.
- Kutum: A local favorite, mild and flaky.
Served:
Grilled whole with lemon, onions, and herbs. Eaten with your hands.
Where to Find:
- Baku Boulevard fish stalls (near the Ferris wheel).
Price: 10-20 AZN depending on size.
5. Qutab vs. Gutab: What's the Difference?
Trick question: They're the same! "Qutab" and "Gutab" are just different spellings. Both refer to the stuffed flatbread.
6. Lavangi (Street Style)
Lavangi is traditionally a stuffed fish or chicken dish from Lankaran. Street vendors in Baku offer a simplified version: grilled chicken stuffed with walnuts, onions, and herbs.
Where to Find:
- Taza Bazaar food stalls.
- Lankaran-style restaurants (Sahil, Lankaran Mətbəxi).
Price: 8-12 AZN.
7. Shashlik (Kebab)
Shashlik (grilled meat skewers) is a Caucasian staple. Marinated lamb, beef, or chicken grilled over charcoal.
Best Street Shashlik:
- Yasamal Bazaar: Locals swear by the shashlik here.
- Taza Bazaar: Cheap and authentic.
Served:
With onions, lavash, and sumac.
Price: 5-10 AZN per skewer.
8. Pakhlava and Shekerbura (Sweet Street Snacks)
Bakeries and street vendors sell these traditional sweets:
- Pakhlava: Layers of dough, nuts, and honey.
- Shekerbura: Crescent-shaped pastries filled with nuts and sugar.
Where to Find:
- Old City bakeries.
- Fountains Square vendors (especially during Novruz).
Price: 2-5 AZN per piece.
9. Pomegranate Juice (Nar Suyu)
Fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice is sold from street carts, especially in autumn.
Why It's Special:
Azerbaijan is famous for its pomegranates. The juice is tart, sweet, and incredibly refreshing.
Where to Find:
- Fountains Square.
- Baku Boulevard.
Price: 2-3 AZN per glass.
10. Corn on the Cob (Qarğıdalı)
Grilled or boiled corn is a popular street snack, especially in summer.
Served:
Brushed with butter and sprinkled with salt.
Where to Find:
- Baku Boulevard vendors.
Price: 1-2 AZN.
Street Food Etiquette
1. Cash Only
Most street vendors don't accept cards. Carry small bills (1, 5, 10 AZN).
2. Eat Fresh
Look for vendors with a line—that means the food is fresh and popular.
3. Don't Be Shy
Point, gesture, and smile. Most vendors are friendly and patient with tourists.
4. Try Everything
Street food is cheap. Order multiple items and share.
Best Street Food Areas in Baku
1. Fountains Square (Fəvvarələr Meydanı)
- Vibe: Touristy but convenient.
- Food: Gutab, doner, sweets.
2. Baku Boulevard
- Vibe: Seaside, relaxed.
- Food: Grilled fish, corn, juice.
3. Old City (Icherisheher)
- Vibe: Historic, atmospheric.
- Food: Tandir bread, gutab, traditional sweets.
4. Taza Bazaar
- Vibe: Local, authentic.
- Food: Everything. This is where locals eat.
5. Yasamal Bazaar
- Vibe: Off the beaten path.
- Food: Shashlik, fresh produce, homemade food.
Conclusion
Street food is the soul of Baku. It's where tradition meets convenience, where locals and tourists share a bench, and where the best meals cost less than a coffee.
So skip the fancy restaurant (just for one meal), hit the streets, and eat like a local.
Next up in our series: Sweet Tooth: Sheki Halva and the Desserts of Azerbaijan