Sheki Khans' Palace: A Glass and Light Masterpiece

Imagine a palace built without a single nail. A building where light itself becomes art, filtered through thousands of pieces of colored glass assembled like a puzzle.

Welcome to the Sheki Khans' Palace, the crown jewel of northwestern Azerbaijan and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Built in the 18th century by Huseyn Khan, this summer residence is a masterpiece of craftsmanship, color, and light. It is small by palace standards—just two floors—but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in breathtaking beauty.

The Shabaka: Windows That Paint with Light

The most famous feature of the palace is its shabaka windows.

Shabaka is a traditional Azerbaijani technique of assembling small pieces of colored glass into intricate wooden frames—without using glue or nails. Each piece of glass is hand-cut and fitted into a wooden lattice so precisely that it holds together through geometry alone.

The Magic of Light

When sunlight streams through the shabaka, the interior of the palace transforms into a kaleidoscope of colors. Red, blue, green, and amber light dances across the frescoed walls, creating an ever-changing display throughout the day.

• Morning: Soft, cool blues and greens.
• Midday: Vibrant reds and golds.
• Afternoon: Warm amber and orange hues.

Pro Tip: Visit around 3-4 PM when the sun hits the windows at the perfect angle.

The Frescoes: Stories on the Walls

The interior walls are covered with vibrant frescoes depicting:

• Hunting Scenes: The Khan and his men chasing deer and wild boar.
• Battle Scenes: Warriors on horseback, swords drawn.
• Floral Patterns: Roses, tulips, and vines in rich reds and golds.
• Geometric Designs: Islamic patterns and medallions.

What's remarkable is that these frescoes were painted using natural pigments made from crushed minerals and plants. Despite being over 250 years old, the colors remain vivid.

The Architecture: Built to Last

The palace was designed by Abbas Kuli Bakikhanov, one of the greatest architects of his time.

No Nails, No Glue

The entire structure is held together using traditional joinery techniques. Wooden beams interlock like a 3D puzzle. This method makes the building earthquake-resistant—a crucial feature in a seismically active region.

The Two Floors

• Ground Floor: Reception halls and administrative rooms.
• Upper Floor: The Khan's private quarters, including the famous shabaka rooms.

Sheki: The City of Khans

The palace is just one part of the charm of Sheki. This mountain town, nestled in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus, is one of Azerbaijan's oldest and most picturesque cities.

What Else to See in Sheki:

• The Caravanserai: Two massive 18th-century inns where Silk Road merchants stayed. One has been converted into a boutique hotel.
• The Albanian Church: A beautiful example of early Christian architecture in the Caucasus.
• Sheki Bazaar: A bustling market where you can buy local honey, nuts, and the famous Sheki Halva.

Sheki Halva: The Sweet Side of History

No visit to Sheki is complete without tasting Sheki Halva, a multi-layered dessert made with rice flour, sugar, nuts, and saffron.

Unlike Turkish baklava, Sheki Halva is lighter, less sweet, and has a unique texture. It's traditionally served during weddings and holidays.

Where to Try It:

• Sheki Bazaar: Fresh from local bakers.
• Marxal Resort: Upscale setting with a view.

Practical Information for Travelers

📍 How to Get There

Sheki is about 350 km northwest of Baku (4-5 hours by car or bus).

• By Bus: Daily buses from Baku International Bus Terminal. Cost: 10-12 AZN.
• By Train: Overnight train from Baku (slower but scenic).
• By Car/Tour: Most comfortable option. Many tours combine Sheki with Lahij and Gabala.

🎟️ Tickets & Opening Hours

• Opening Hours: Daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM (closed Mondays).
• Entrance Fee: Approximately 5 AZN for foreign citizens.

💡 Tips for Visiting

• Photography: Allowed, but no flash (to protect the frescoes).
• Guided Tours: Available in Azerbaijani, Russian, and English. Highly recommended.
• Stay Overnight: Sheki is worth more than a day trip. Stay at the Caravanserai Hotel for a unique experience.

Conclusion

The Sheki Khans' Palace is proof that true luxury is not about size or gold—it's about craftsmanship, light, and beauty.

Standing in the shabaka room, surrounded by colored light and ancient art, you feel transported to a time when palaces were built by hand, with patience and love.

Next up in our series: Lahij: The Copper Village Hidden in the Mountains