Lankaran Tea & Citrus: The South's Flavor Profile

While Baku buzzes with modernity and the north boasts mountains, the south of Azerbaijan is a different world entirely.

Welcome to Lankaran, a subtropical paradise where tea plantations carpet the hillsides, citrus groves perfume the air, and the Caspian Sea meets ancient Hyrcanian forests.

This is Azerbaijan's hidden gem—a place where the cuisine is as unique as the climate.

The Climate: Azerbaijan's Subtropical Secret

Lankaran sits in the Talysh region, in the far southeast corner of Azerbaijan, bordering Iran.

Why It's Different:

• Subtropical Climate: Warm, humid, with heavy rainfall.
• Lush Vegetation: Rice paddies, tea plantations, citrus orchards.
• Unique Ecosystem: Part of the ancient Hyrcanian forests (a UNESCO World Heritage site).

Fun Fact: Lankaran is one of the wettest places in Azerbaijan, receiving over 1,600mm of rain per year.

Lankaran Tea: Azerbaijan's Only Tea

Azerbaijan is not known for tea production—except in Lankaran.

The History:

Tea cultivation began here in the 19th century under Russian rule. The subtropical climate proved perfect for growing tea.

The Tea Plantations:

• Located in the hills around Astara and Lankaran.
• Small, family-run farms.
• Organic, hand-picked leaves.

The Flavor:

Lankaran tea is black tea with a slightly earthy, robust flavor. It's less delicate than Chinese tea but more complex than standard Russian tea.

Where to Visit:

• Astara Tea Plantations: Tours available (contact local guides).
• Lankaran Tea Factory: Sometimes open for visits.

Where to Buy:

• Lankaran Bazaar: Fresh, locally produced tea.
• Baku: Specialty tea shops (look for "Lankaran Çayı").

Price: 10-20 AZN per 100g.

Citrus: The Golden Harvest

Lankaran is famous for its citrus fruits, especially lemons and feijoa (pineapple guava).

The Citrus Festival:

Every autumn, Lankaran hosts a Citrus Festival celebrating the harvest. Expect:

• Fresh citrus tastings
• Local food stalls
• Traditional music and dance

What Grows Here:

• Lemons: Juicy, aromatic, used in cooking and tea.
• Feijoa: A green, egg-shaped fruit with a tropical flavor (pineapple + guava + mint).
• Persimmons (Xurma): Sweet, orange, and abundant.

Where to Buy:

• Lankaran Bazaar: Fresh from local farms.
• Roadside Stands: Along the Baku-Lankaran highway.

Talysh Cuisine: A Unique Flavor Profile

The Talysh people are an ethnic minority in southern Azerbaijan with their own language and culinary traditions.

Key Ingredients:

• Rice: Grown locally in paddies.
• Fish: From the Caspian Sea and local rivers.
• Herbs: Wild herbs from the forests (sorrel, nettles, fenugreek).
• Walnuts: Used in sauces and stuffings.

Must-Try Dishes from Lankaran

1. Lavangi

The signature dish of Lankaran. Chicken or fish stuffed with a paste of walnuts, onions, and herbs, then baked.

The Flavor: Rich, nutty, aromatic.

Where to Try:

• Lankaran Mətbəxi (Baku): Authentic Talysh restaurant.
• Sahil Restaurant (Lankaran): Seaside dining.

Price: 12-18 AZN.

2. Plov with Fish

Unlike the meat-based plov of the north, Lankaran plov features fried fish (usually kutum or sturgeon) served on saffron rice.

Where to Try:

• Local restaurants in Lankaran.

Price: 10-15 AZN.

3. Kuku with Wild Herbs

A Talysh version of the herb omelet, made with foraged wild greens like sorrel and nettles.

The Flavor: Earthy, slightly tangy.

4. Feijoa Jam

Homemade jam made from feijoa. Sweet, tropical, and unique.

Where to Buy:

• Lankaran Bazaar.
• Baku specialty shops.

Price: 8-15 AZN per jar.

5. Lənkəran Plov (Lankaran Plov)

A regional variation with saffron rice, fried fish, and herbs.

Where to Eat in Lankaran

1. Sahil Restaurant

• Location: Lankaran seaside.
• Specialty: Lavangi, fresh fish.
• Vibe: Casual, beachside.

2. Xan Lankaran

• Location: City center.
• Specialty: Traditional Talysh cuisine.
• Vibe: Family-friendly.

3. Local Guesthouses

• Specialty: Homemade Talysh food.
• Vibe: Authentic, intimate.

Beyond Food: What Else to See in Lankaran

1. Hirkan National Park

• Highlights: Ancient Hyrcanian forests, rare "Iron Trees" (Parrotia persica).
• Activities: Hiking, birdwatching.

2. Lankaran Fortress

• Highlights: 18th-century fortress ruins.

3. Black Sand Beaches

• Highlights: Unique volcanic black sand beaches along the Caspian.

4. Yanar Bulag (Burning Spring)

• Highlights: Natural gas seeps through water, creating a flame on the surface.

Getting to Lankaran

From Baku:

• By Car: 270 km south (3.5-4 hours).
• By Bus: Daily buses from Baku International Bus Terminal (10-12 AZN).
• By Train: Overnight train (slower but scenic).

Best Time to Visit

• Autumn (September-November): Citrus harvest, Citrus Festival, pleasant weather.
• Spring (April-May): Lush greenery, tea picking season.
• Avoid: Summer can be very humid.

Conclusion

Lankaran is Azerbaijan's subtropical secret—a place where tea grows on hillsides, citrus perfumes the air, and the cuisine is unlike anywhere else in the country.

If you want to see a different side of Azerbaijan, one that's green, lush, and deliciously unique, head south to Lankaran.

Next up in our series: Khinalig: The Highest Village in Europe?