24 Hours in Ganja: The City of Poetry
While Baku gets all the attention, Ganja—Azerbaijan's second-largest city—quietly preserves the soul of the nation.
This is the birthplace of Nizami Ganjavi, one of the greatest Persian poets. It's a city of tree-lined boulevards, Soviet-era architecture, and quirky attractions like the Bottle House (yes, a house made entirely of glass bottles).
Ganja moves at a slower pace than Baku, and that's exactly its charm.
Morning: Poetry and History
9:00 AM - Nizami Ganjavi Mausoleum
Start your day at the tomb of Ganja's most famous son.
Who Was Nizami?
- 12th-century Persian poet
- Wrote epic poems including Layla and Majnun and The Seven Beauties
- Influenced literature across the Islamic world
The Mausoleum:
- Built: 2014 (modern reconstruction)
- Design: Cylindrical tower with blue tiles
- Surroundings: Beautiful park with fountains
Entrance: Free
10:30 AM - Javad Khan Street
Stroll down Ganja's main pedestrian street.
What You'll See:
- Cafes and Shops: Local boutiques, tea houses
- Soviet Architecture: Preserved buildings from the 1960s-70s
- Fountains: Multiple decorative fountains
Stop For: Tea and pakhlava at a local cafe
11:30 AM - Bottle House (Butulka Evi)
This is Ganja's quirkiest attraction.
The Story:
- Built by Ibrahim Jafarov in memory of his brother who went missing in WWII
- 50,000+ glass bottles used in construction
- Bottles form mosaics depicting portraits and symbols
What You'll See:
- Exterior walls covered in bottles
- Portraits of family members
- Inscriptions and dates
Entrance: Free (donations appreciated)
Afternoon: Nature and Relaxation
1:00 PM - Lunch at a Local Restaurant
Try traditional Ganja cuisine.
Recommended Dishes:
- Plov: Ganja-style with chestnuts
- Piti: Lamb and chickpea stew
- Dovga: Yogurt soup
Recommended Restaurants:
- Ganja Restaurant
- Karvansaray
2:30 PM - Khan Baghi (Khan's Garden)
A peaceful park in the city center.
Highlights:
- Lake: Small artificial lake with boats
- Fountains: Musical fountain shows (evenings)
- Cafes: Lakeside cafes for tea
Perfect For: A post-lunch stroll
4:00 PM - Juma Mosque
One of the oldest mosques in the Caucasus.
History:
- Built: 17th century (rebuilt multiple times)
- Architecture: Persian-Islamic style
- Features: Two minarets, blue dome
Entrance: Free (dress modestly)
Evening: Culture and Cuisine
6:00 PM - Ganja State Philharmonic
If there's a performance, attend a concert.
What's On:
- Mugham: Traditional Azerbaijani music
- Classical: Western classical music
- Folk Ensembles
Tickets: 5-20 AZN
7:30 PM - Dinner and Nightlife
Ganja's nightlife is low-key but pleasant.
Dinner Options:
- Riverside Restaurants: Along the Ganja River
- Javad Khan Street: Cafes and restaurants
After Dinner:
- Tea Houses: Traditional armudu tea
- Bars: A few modern bars for younger crowds
Where to Stay
Budget:
- Hostels and Guesthouses: 20-40 AZN per night
Mid-Range:
- Ganja Hotel: 60-100 AZN per night
- Ramada Plaza: 80-120 AZN per night
Luxury:
- Vego Hotel: 100-150 AZN per night
Getting to Ganja
From Baku:
- By Train: Overnight train (8 hours, 10-15 AZN)
- By Bus: 4-5 hours (10-12 AZN)
- By Car: 4 hours (rent a car: 50-100 AZN/day)
- By Plane: 1 hour (30-50 AZN)
Day Trips from Ganja
1. Lake Goygol
- Distance: 60 km
- Highlights: Stunning turquoise lake, national park
- Time Needed: Half-day
2. Goygol Winery
- Distance: 10 km
- Highlights: Wine tasting, historic winery
- Time Needed: 2-3 hours
3. Naftalan
- Distance: 50 km
- Highlights: Therapeutic oil baths
- Time Needed: Full day (or overnight)
Ganja vs. Baku: The Differences
| Feature | Ganja | Baku |
|---|---|---|
| Pace | Slower, relaxed | Fast, cosmopolitan |
| Architecture | Soviet-era, historic | Modern, futuristic |
| Tourism | Fewer tourists | Major tourist hub |
| Prices | Cheaper | More expensive |
| Atmosphere | Traditional, authentic | International, modern |
Practical Tips
Language:
- Azerbaijani: Widely spoken
- Russian: Understood by older generations
- English: Limited (less than Baku)
Money:
- ATMs: Available throughout the city
- Cards: Accepted in hotels and restaurants, cash preferred elsewhere
Safety:
- Very Safe: Low crime rate
- Friendly: Locals are welcoming to tourists
Conclusion
Ganja is the Azerbaijan that Baku used to be—quieter, slower, more traditional. It's a city where poetry still matters, where tea is sipped slowly, and where a house made of bottles is a monument to love and loss.
If you want to see the real Azerbaijan, beyond the glitz of Baku, spend 24 hours in Ganja.
Next up in our series: Nakhchivan: The Machu Picchu of Eurasia?