The King of the Table: A Guide to Azerbaijani Plov
In Azerbaijan, there's a saying: "A table without plov is like a sky without stars."
Plov (pilaf) is not just a dish—it's the centerpiece of every celebration, the pride of every cook, and the subject of fierce regional debates. Is Baku-style better than Sheki-style? Should the rice be crispy or fluffy? These are serious questions.
With over 40 documented varieties, Azerbaijani plov is a culinary universe unto itself. And at the center of that universe sits the king: Shah Plov.
Let's dig in.
What Makes Azerbaijani Plov Special?
Unlike other rice dishes, Azerbaijani plov has a unique structure:
The Three Layers:
- Gazmag (The Bottom Crust): A crispy, golden layer made from lavash bread, eggs, or potatoes. This is the most prized part.
- The Rice: Long-grain, fluffy, and often infused with saffron.
- The Topping (Gara): Meat, dried fruits, chestnuts, or vegetables.
The rice is cooked separately from the topping and combined only when served. This keeps each element distinct.
The Crown Jewel: Shah Plov
Shah Plov (King's Pilaf) is the most elaborate and visually stunning variety.
What Makes It Royal?
- Wrapped in Lavash: The rice is wrapped in thin lavash bread before baking, creating a golden, crispy dome.
- Saffron-Infused: The rice glows yellow-orange from saffron.
- Filled with Treasures: Dried apricots, raisins, chestnuts, and lamb.
When the dome is cut open at the table, steam escapes, and the aroma fills the room. It's theater as much as it is food.
Where to Try It:
- Firuze Restaurant (Baku): Famous for their Shah Plov presentation.
- Shirvanshah Museum Restaurant (Old City): Traditional setting, excellent quality.
- Mangal Steakhouse: Modern take on classic plov.
The 40+ Varieties: A Plov for Every Occasion
Here are some of the most popular types:
1. Toyug Plov (Chicken Plov)
The most common. Tender chicken pieces with saffron rice.
2. Sebzi Plov (Herb Plov)
Rice cooked with dill, cilantro, and spring onions. Often served with fish.
3. Shirin Plov (Sweet Plov)
Rice with dried fruits, almonds, and a touch of sugar. Served at weddings.
4. Chilov (Plain Rice)
Simple, buttery rice. The foundation of all plov.
5. Parcha-Dosheme Plov
"Patchwork" plov with layers of different ingredients creating a mosaic effect.
6. Kourma Plov
With lamb stew and chickpeas.
7. Sheshryanch Plov
"Six-color" plov with six different toppings arranged in sections.
The Art of the Gazmag
The gazmag (crispy bottom) is the soul of plov. It's what separates a good plov from a great one.
Types of Gazmag:
- Lavash Gazmag: Thin bread crisped in butter.
- Yumurta Gazmag: Eggs mixed with yogurt and saffron.
- Kartof Gazmag: Thinly sliced potatoes.
The Test of a Good Cook: If the gazmag is perfectly golden and crispy without burning, the cook is a master.
Plov Etiquette: How to Eat Like a Local
1. Wait for the Host
The host serves the plov. Don't start until everyone is served.
2. The Gazmag is an Honor
If you're offered a piece of gazmag, it means you're a valued guest. Accept with gratitude.
3. Pair with Yogurt
Plov is often served with a side of dovga (yogurt soup) or plain yogurt to balance the richness.
4. Tea After, Not During
Azerbaijanis drink tea after the meal, not with it.
Making Plov at Home: A Simplified Recipe
Ingredients (Serves 4):
- 2 cups long-grain rice (basmati works)
- 500g lamb or chicken
- 1 onion, sliced
- 1/2 cup dried apricots and raisins
- 1/4 tsp saffron
- Butter
- Salt, pepper
- Lavash bread (for gazmag)
Steps:
- Cook the Meat: Sauté onions, add meat, cook until tender. Add dried fruits.
- Prepare the Rice: Boil rice until 70% cooked. Drain.
- Make the Gazmag: Melt butter in a pot, lay lavash on the bottom.
- Layer: Add rice on top of lavash. Poke holes with a spoon handle (for steam).
- Steam: Cover with a towel and lid. Cook on low heat for 40 minutes.
- Serve: Flip onto a platter. The lavash should be golden and crispy.
Plov Festivals and Competitions
International Plov Festival (Baku)
Held annually, chefs from across Azerbaijan compete to make the best plov. Visitors can taste dozens of varieties.
Guinness World Record
In 2017, Azerbaijan set a record for the largest plov ever made—3,000 kg, feeding thousands.
Conclusion
Plov is more than food in Azerbaijan—it's a language of love, hospitality, and pride. Every grain of rice, every piece of gazmag, carries the weight of tradition.
So when you're invited to an Azerbaijani table and the plov is served, remember: you're not just eating dinner. You're tasting history.
Next up in our series: Beyond Kebab: 10 Vegetarian Dishes in Azerbaijan
